The island of Bali was the only glimpse we had of the massive country of Indonesia, but our seven days there was full of pleasant surprises. Spending most of our time in Ubud, the cultural heart of Bali, we were able to watch traditional dances, listen to gamelan music, attend several religious ceremonies, and browse through dozens of arts and craft shops. We took a few day trips to see some of the other popular sites around Bali; the relative absence of tourists all over the island spoke volumes about the impact of the Bali bombing last year.