Our introduction to Moroccan riad dining at La Maison Bleue in Fez whetted our appetites for more, but this time we decided we were ready for something a bit less traditional, and Dar Moha in Marrakesh – described as “digestible Moroccan nouvelle cuisine” – fit the bill. After wandering from the Djemaa el-Fna toward the Koutoubia Mosque asking vainly for directions to Dar El Bacha, we found some cab drivers who were all too willing to take us there (while blatantly rigging a 10-dirham fee for a mere 3-minute ride).

Upon arrival we found ourselves in yet another hushed magical courtyard behind nondescript street doors. We made our way through several empty but richly appointed dining rooms (with East Asian décor!), not quite sure we were in the right place. But only steps further on, we saw the glow of candles ahead and heard the low murmur of our fellow diners, and suddenly we found ourselves in a glorious backyard terrace, complete with a tranquil central pool, rose-petal-strewn and candle-lit dining tables spread at agreeable distances and gnaoua musicians to complete the ambience.

It is possible that this backdrop would have enhanced any meal, but the succession of tastes that followed was a genuine delight. The collection of starter salads elicited a stream of appreciative exclamations: the concentration of red pepper cannot have been more intense; cucumbers are refreshingly sweet once soaked in orange water; and eggplant works surprisingly well in the sweet context of honey. A medley of pastillas (pigeon, meat/egg, vegetable, fish) served as warm appetizers: each slightly different, some sweet and others savory, all flakily flavorful. As if that wasn’t enough, a few more pastries (spinach/shrimp, meat, cheese), a classic Moroccan carrot-orange salad, and a sizeable plate of chicken appeared as well. The main courses: three different tagines (seafood, lamb, chicken) and a quail pastilla (with a gooey consistency quite unlike those we’ve had before), accompanied by two different couscous dishes (fine/coarse, with a variety of vegetables). Once again we had to resort to our special dessert stomachs to squeeze in the final delectables set before us, which were (thankfully) light and fruity.

To the relief of the musicians, we were finally stuffed to capacity. We dragged ourselves out of our eating heaven and into a pair of cabs for our (again overpriced) journey home, where we promptly collapsed into the contented sleep of the very, very full. Our gastronomic adventures are far from over, but as splurge meals go Dar Moha will be tough to top.

(Special thanks to Nancy Chang for this writeup. We wouldn't have been able to express this better!)

** Mouse over the various foods to see their description **

Additional plates not pictured:
- Pastilla au khaliaa: fish pastilla
- Pastilla de lotte: meat and egg pastilla
- Spinach and shrimp phyllo bricks
- Meat phyllo cigars
- Orange-carrot salad
- “White chicken”: grilled chicken pieces

Mmm-mmm!! So full!!